northern lights: who what when where why
The northern lights are on everyone's bucket list and they should be. The magical aurora dazzles in radiant colors that defy our notions of beauty. Yes, the pictures can be embellished to show more depth that what one can see. However, when a strong aurora storm occurs on a clear eve, it is better than advertised. A picture does not compare to the rush of light piercing the dark skies. Having a front row seat at a cosmic light show is beyond comparison. The best way to make an aurora experience happen is with research, understanding of the kp index and flexibility. I will quickly go through the who what when where and why to greatly increase your chances to experience this amazing phenomenon.
who: you and your close friends/family. bringing people together is important in life and having an excuse to do something beautiful with close ones should be high on your agenda. I would not rely upon tour guides who plan things out months in advance with no knowledge of weather or an upcoming aurora forecast. You are the most important person to make this memorable experience happen.
what: the aurora borealis - magnetically charge solar flares that enter the earth's atmosphere causing magnificent displays of color and light. It creates magical, dizzying glow that can make one question reality and usually brings excitement and joy.
when: for the aurora to fully appear there needs to be dark skies. in the far north, the summer months have 24 hours of light which diminishes the views of the aurora. mid September until early November and February until early April are good times for success. There are slight variations depending on how far north you travel in terms of daylight and dark skies. Generally, I look for a day length of 14 hours or less which should bring dark skies. I use timeanddate.com for the week I am considering to explore to obtain length of days. I also usually avoid the winter months of mid November until early February as extreme cold, fast weather changes and almost no daylight for transportation make the experience more difficult. I really enjoy the fall when there is little to no frost on the ground and eves can be pleasant. Though the cold nights of February and March can be exhilarating when properly prepared.
the second factor for when to travel is understanding the KP index (or northern lights forecast). There is a 27 day forecast via the national oceanic atmospheric association (noaa) that updates each week (link below). the university of alaska fairbanks also displays this info and puts in it an easier format to understand (see second link below). The forecast ranges from a zero (no aurora) to the top level of a 9. However, the forecast rarely indicates a measure of above a 5. I look for a forecast of multiple days with 4s or 5s to increase chances of seeing the aurora. This is very helpful to be more efficient with your time to see the lights.
NOAA 27 Day Forecast:
https://www.swpc.noaa.gov/products/27-day-outlook-107-cm-radio-flux-and-geomagnetic-indices
the University of Alaska Fairbanks has a website which shows the forecast and it displays the expected aurora oval. This info combined is very helpful:
https://www.gi.alaska.edu/monitors/aurora-forecast
for those wanting more information, I have a more detailed article that I wrote about the KP index here:
https://www.stardustexperience.com/northern-lights-forecast
The third factor in the when is weather. The aurora can be easily stymied by clouds especially when going to the far north. I usually have identified what days there will be aurora a couple weeks in advance then wait until closer to travel days to see what areas have clear skies. I will discuss further about locations and when to travel in the next section...
where: there is an aurora oval that highlights areas the northern lights typically concentrates. there are 5 areas that you can easily fly to see the lights that are within this aurora oval. Yes, you can take difficult or extravagant trips to very remote locations to see aurora; however, I will be addressing logistically easier spots to visit.
Note: you can see the southern lights (aurora australis), though, you need to go to Antarctica to be in the southern aurora oval which is expensive and logistically difficult. you can also see the lights low on the horizon in New zealand and tasmania; though, i ideally want the experience directly overhead. I will also be not including Russia, Greenland & certain areas of northern Canada due logistical considerations (visa requirements and lack of direct flights). Since, I do a lot of my travels last minute, I rely upon Airbnb for places to stay depending on where the clear skies take me.
The five locations to easily fly to are Alaska, the Yukon, the Northwest Territories, Iceland and northern Scandinavia (Norway/Finland/Sweden).
Alaska has two entry airports of Anchorage or Fairbanks. I live in California and this is the easiest location for me to fly to in terms of costs and logistics. Another plus is Fairbanks has a rain shadow from surrounding mountains causing much less cloud cover than Scandinavia. Demand for flights to Alaska plummet after summer so getting last minutes flights has been reasonable. Driving north from Anchorage or east from Fairbanks allows for plenty of land to roam. Going up the Dalton Highway towards Coldfoot is only for the well prepared and those with rental cars equipped for the bumpy ride. anchorage and fairbanks have high number of places to stay through hotels or airbnbs.
In the Yukon of Canada, Whitehorse is another destination to see the lights. Further north is historic Dawson City, a fascinating gold rush town, which does have an airport as well. The Ogilve Mountains up the Dempster Highway are for the adventurous minded. Shuttles can take travelers up this rugged road but please be aware that most rental car companies do not allow driving on this highway due to the fact that is mostly unpaved. the two towns noted above have accommodations but most of the region requires camping or staying in a van.
Also in Canada, Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories has a major airport. This area has numerous lakes that sparkle in the fall when the water has not frozen yet. It is a remote and fascinating destination that attracts aurora hunters year round. There are not many roads beyond Yellowknife but the Ingraham Trail leads to the east of Yellowknife with numerous lakes and plenty of dark sky. there are plenty of airbnbs in the area to get some daytime rest before heading out at night. please note that rental car agencies in yellowknife often limit the allowable miles driven per day.
Iceland is a well know location to see the aurora. There are numerous flights to Reykjavik with rental vans/cars and airbnb spots. The entire country essentially falls within the aurora oval. It is a spectacularly beautiful country with massive waterfalls and impressive fjords. Traveling the ring road or even up into the Westfjords can lead to magical evenings of aurora viewing. However, the country is know for high precipitation and cloud cover can last for weeks. I like to say Iceland is high risk, high reward. also, basic costs for food, gas and lodging can be expensive.
The last area is northern Scandinavia. The most common area to fly to is Tromso, Norway which has been labeled Paris of the north. It is a glistening city lying above the arctic circle with views to cherish. It has very good tourist infrastructure and access to stunning spots such as Senja, Lofoten and the Lyngen Alps. The area also has high levels of cloud cover that can disrupt aurora viewing. Kiruna, Sweden is also in this region and has the least amount of precipitation in the region due to a rain shadow. It has an airport ; though, it can easily be driven to via Tromso. Kiruna is a mix of industry and residential surrounded by nature. Abisko National Park is up the road with many pristine lakes and hiking opportunities when not frozen. Finally, Oulu, Finland can also be visited as it has a major airport. The towns of Rovaniemi and Levi are nearby and offer accommodation, skiing and dark skies. Further south is Riisinturi National Park that has fascinating snow covered trees in winter. This phenomenon of snow caking on tree is called Tykky in Finish and is definitely worth checking out. please be aware that costs in scandinavia can be high for lodging, food and gas. in addition, Getting last minute tickets to Scandinavia can be pricey. i have found deals flying to oslo last minute then taking separate flights north on a different airlines as a way to save money.
Note: Please note that flexibility is important for a successful aurora trip. Avoid joining tours months in advance as there may be no aurora and/or bad weather. Use the KP Index to help identify when high likelihood of northern lights to narrow days of travel. also be aware that in mid winter, there will be limited daytime light for transporting and weather can change quickly. Use major hubs such as anchorage, reykjavik and oslo to expand airlines to use for hopefully lower costs. with this information, your chances to experience the aurora will improve dramatically.
